MVMT Watches

Kaibab270

EDC Apprentice
#1
Something about their commercial on TV is annoying to me, but has anyone tried these? They have some really nice looking watches. I see they pretty much exclusively use Japanese Miyota movements. For the price point are there better options? They have models from $100-$300 but seem to average about $150.

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#2
MVMT is a bit of a pet peeve of mine. They're in the same bucket as Vincero and basically fast fashion.

They're junk. QC is bad. Overall quality is bad. They're using the absolute crappiest grade of Miyota movements (similar to what's used in $20 counterfeits and stuff on aliexpress). They are quartz, so they should keep good time. "Hardened mineral crystal" in watches like that usually means they'll break or at least scratch the first time you bump something. It may or may not be true with them, but it is true for Vincero.

They have nothing really going for them except their advertising.

If you really like that style or the brand image, sure. They are watches. Watches are about what you like as much as anything else.

But, there are a lot of really watches in that price range without resorting to fast fashion. If nothing else, you can get many Seiko, Orient, and Citizen watches at a similar price point that are all going to be built better, including solar powered quartz or mechanical. The mechanical ones won't keep time as well, which is one of the weird things about watches....more expensive ones perform worse than cheap ones at least on that metric. But if it were all about price:performance ratio, I'm not sure it's possible to beat the casio world timer.
 

Kaibab270

EDC Apprentice
#3
Thanks for the info, all I've seen of them is the pictures on their site so I had to ask. Like I said the commercial bugs me and I noticed the miyota movements. I'm just not educated on watches at all. I'll have to look in to the brands you mentioned. What about Fossil or nixon?

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#4
Thanks for the info, all I've seen of them is the pictures on their site so I had to ask. Like I said the commercial bugs me and I noticed the miyota movements. I'm just not educated on watches at all. I'll have to look in to the brands you mentioned. What about Fossil or nixon?

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They're also basically fast fashion. And typically even cheaper-made.

If you really like something, don't let me or anyone else insult you for it. That's dumb. But watches are one place where it's really easy to pay a few hundred dollars for a $30 product.

One decent rule of thumb is that if the company makes a product other than watches or clocks, they probably make pretty cheap watches.

What style/features are you looking for? Any size preference?
 
#5
I'm usually a buy once cry once type of guy but with watches and my modest income I'd like to stay in a good watch/affordable price range. Say $200 give or take a little. I'd like a dive watch with 200m resistance or more and was looking for a black on black combo. The Orient Ray 2 Raven looks about perfect but now reading some reviews I'm hesitant on the PVD coating and black watches in general. Apparently they get beat up lookin pretty quickly. I have a really small wrist like 6.5-7" so probably need to stay in the sub 45mm range.

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#6
I actually like the Ray 2 a lot. PVD...it might last well, or it might wear. I kinda think that small scuffs/scratches on a lot of my stuff just give it character. Especially things like dive watches. They are made for sport (diving). They are supposed to take some abuse and stand up to it. I almost cried the first time I noticed a scratch on my Omega Seamaster. But, you know what...I've had it for 22 years. It's definitely scratched now. And it's still a great watch. And it's very clearly mine and not a safe queen. And I like it even more than the day I got it.

FWIW, your budget isn't that far off from some of the plastic-body not-actually-a-diver Luminox watches. They've gotten a really weird reputation due to their marketing (the seals I've met were all wearing g-shocks). But, they're ETA movements, and the tritium is the only lume that actually lasts into the night that I've ever seen (including omega, rolex, etc.) except for eletroluminescent stuff. The sub-$300 ones are NOT safe to actually dive with if that's what you want. But g-shocks and dive computers do that job better these days. They're light weight, accurate, and you can beat the crap out of them....the plastic body actually takes a lot of abuse and does nothing with it, but they will scratch somewhat easily. The black finish will last better than PVD because there's nothing under it but more of the same plastic. I have a leatherback giant sea turtle for exactly that purpose (along with a g-shock). I also don't like the straps they come with, but they're easy to change (doing it with a knife blade or something will damage the case...use the right tool).

There are actually a lot of options for what you seem to want apart from PVD, but they all pretty much look like submariners. Whether that matters to you...enh. I don't really care about homages. If anyone ever makes fun of you, the Submariner was basically a Blancpan Five Fathoms homage when it was created. Anyway...

You can get a Seiko SKX007 for about $200 (USD). It's one of the most iconic watches out there. I think they're a little on the bulky side for my taste, and I'm not a huge fan of the non-hacking movement (the second hand doesn't stop when you pull the crown to set it). But they take a LOT of abuse. The movement, IIRC, is -4 to +10 seconds/day, which is pretty run of the mill for a mechanical in that price range. But, it's also pretty much bulletproof. And it's one of the most popular movements out there, so any competent watchmaker can work on it for very little money (and every mechanical needs to be maintained every 5-10 years...those costs can add up). If you want something more accurate than that, you're looking at quartz or spending a lot more.

If the 42mm version is a bit big, they make a smaller one (SKX009, I think, might be 013) that's basically the same watch except for the overall size.

I watched my jits instructor realize he didn't want to be wearing it while he was rolling and tossed it across the room. As expected, it was fine. It was a gentle toss, and it landed on a soft mat. But still. It's a mechanical watch.

The Citizen Promaster Diver is remarkably similar-looking. They were also issued to the italian navy for a while, which is kinda cool.

If you want something more accurate, you need to go quartz. Or spend a LOT more (and they still won't be as accurate as a relatively cheap quartz if that's what you care about). I'd still look at Citizen or Seiko first.

Mostly, though, you just want something that blows your hair back. MVMT, Vincero, and pretty much any fashion brand just bug me...because they typically cost more than watches from companies that actually did something engineering-wise that helped watchmaking and (if you take care of them) will outlast you. And they're made out of junk materials and basically just exist to chase trends....instead of setting them. But, if that's what you like, don't let some idiot on the internet dissuade you.
 
#7
Dude you've been very helpful on this forum, kudos to you and your not just some guy dissuading me from anything. I like to take people's thoughts and info and form my own opinions before I buy and solidify said opinion. Yes, looks are very important to me but I also require good functionality and quality so without trying one for myself things like MVMT seem like something I'll get to maybe another time. I do prefer automatic watches (I operate a CNC for a living so that aspect of the watch is right up my alley) and I dont mind some wear and tear (I love a good brass and copper patina) but I also dont want it to explode just looking at it too hard. I think in the end I'll end up with the Ray 2 or the Pro Diver but I'm not in a rush so I'll decide in time what to go with. As far as actual water resistance, I'm not a scuba diver but I do the occasional snorkeling so at minimum I would want 100m with 200m being extra assurance. Again thanks for taking the time to answer these posts. It really seems like there are only a handful of people here that are really active on here.

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EDCP-MIKE

Administrator
Staff member
Charter Member
#9
I actually like the Ray 2 a lot. PVD...it might last well, or it might wear. I kinda think that small scuffs/scratches on a lot of my stuff just give it character. Especially things like dive watches. They are made for sport (diving). They are supposed to take some abuse and stand up to it. I almost cried the first time I noticed a scratch on my Omega Seamaster. But, you know what...I've had it for 22 years. It's definitely scratched now. And it's still a great watch. And it's very clearly mine and not a safe queen. And I like it even more than the day I got it.

FWIW, your budget isn't that far off from some of the plastic-body not-actually-a-diver Luminox watches. They've gotten a really weird reputation due to their marketing (the seals I've met were all wearing g-shocks). But, they're ETA movements, and the tritium is the only lume that actually lasts into the night that I've ever seen (including omega, rolex, etc.) except for eletroluminescent stuff. The sub-$300 ones are NOT safe to actually dive with if that's what you want. But g-shocks and dive computers do that job better these days. They're light weight, accurate, and you can beat the crap out of them....the plastic body actually takes a lot of abuse and does nothing with it, but they will scratch somewhat easily. The black finish will last better than PVD because there's nothing under it but more of the same plastic. I have a leatherback giant sea turtle for exactly that purpose (along with a g-shock). I also don't like the straps they come with, but they're easy to change (doing it with a knife blade or something will damage the case...use the right tool).

There are actually a lot of options for what you seem to want apart from PVD, but they all pretty much look like submariners. Whether that matters to you...enh. I don't really care about homages. If anyone ever makes fun of you, the Submariner was basically a Blancpan Five Fathoms homage when it was created. Anyway...

You can get a Seiko SKX007 for about $200 (USD). It's one of the most iconic watches out there. I think they're a little on the bulky side for my taste, and I'm not a huge fan of the non-hacking movement (the second hand doesn't stop when you pull the crown to set it). But they take a LOT of abuse. The movement, IIRC, is -4 to +10 seconds/day, which is pretty run of the mill for a mechanical in that price range. But, it's also pretty much bulletproof. And it's one of the most popular movements out there, so any competent watchmaker can work on it for very little money (and every mechanical needs to be maintained every 5-10 years...those costs can add up). If you want something more accurate than that, you're looking at quartz or spending a lot more.

If the 42mm version is a bit big, they make a smaller one (SKX009, I think, might be 013) that's basically the same watch except for the overall size.

I watched my jits instructor realize he didn't want to be wearing it while he was rolling and tossed it across the room. As expected, it was fine. It was a gentle toss, and it landed on a soft mat. But still. It's a mechanical watch.

The Citizen Promaster Diver is remarkably similar-looking. They were also issued to the italian navy for a while, which is kinda cool.

If you want something more accurate, you need to go quartz. Or spend a LOT more (and they still won't be as accurate as a relatively cheap quartz if that's what you care about). I'd still look at Citizen or Seiko first.

Mostly, though, you just want something that blows your hair back. MVMT, Vincero, and pretty much any fashion brand just bug me...because they typically cost more than watches from companies that actually did something engineering-wise that helped watchmaking and (if you take care of them) will outlast you. And they're made out of junk materials and basically just exist to chase trends....instead of setting them. But, if that's what you like, don't let some idiot on the internet dissuade you.
Thanks for the info! I learned a few things.
 
#10
Dude you've been very helpful on this forum, kudos to you and your not just some guy dissuading me from anything. I like to take people's thoughts and info and form my own opinions before I buy and solidify said opinion. Yes, looks are very important to me but I also require good functionality and quality so without trying one for myself things like MVMT seem like something I'll get to maybe another time. I do prefer automatic watches (I operate a CNC for a living so that aspect of the watch is right up my alley) and I dont mind some wear and tear (I love a good brass and copper patina) but I also dont want it to explode just looking at it too hard. I think in the end I'll end up with the Ray 2 or the Pro Diver but I'm not in a rush so I'll decide in time what to go with. As far as actual water resistance, I'm not a scuba diver but I do the occasional snorkeling so at minimum I would want 100m with 200m being extra assurance. Again thanks for taking the time to answer these posts. It really seems like there are only a handful of people here that are really active on here.

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Very few watches will explode from looking at them too hard. But, I've seen it happen with Vincero and read about it with MVMT and a handful of "fashion" brands.

100M is okay for snorkeling, depending on how strong of a swimmer you are. The fact that they use "meters" is a bit of a point of contention to a lot of people because it's misleading.

100m actually means 10 Atmospheres of pressure.

So, they'll survive at ~100m depth if the watch is perfectly still. As soon as you put it on a swimmer's (or diver's) arm, that movement changes the pressures the watch experiences. And for a strong swimmer, part of the watch "sees" pressures significantly higher that could cause a failure.

30m means splashing/rain, not swimming to 100 feet. Not by a long shot.
50m means it can fall in shallow water. Swimming can be okay.
100m is good for swimming and "normal" snorkeling. I'd want more for free diving if I was good at it.
200m is good for snorkling and "normal" diving (reefs and other normal attractions are shallow and easy to get to).
300m is good for more intense diving.
500-1000m is good for most of the things humans can do underwater. If you need more, you'd know it.

Thanks for the info! I learned a few things.
NP. I kinda get off on watches.
 
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